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In 1983, Queen Elizabeth II sailed past Isla Espíritu Santo on her royal yacht, Britannia, en route to La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur. This was her second visit to Mexico but her first to the peninsula’s breathtaking coastline. Her journey was no coincidence—La Paz shared a unique historical bond with the British Crown.
Located off the coast of La Paz, Isla Espíritu Santo is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site and a top ecotourism destination. Known for its pristine waters and abundant marine life, the island attracts visitors eager to explore Baja California’s unspoiled natural wonders. However, long before it became a tourist hotspot, Isla Espíritu Santo was famous for something else—its rich oyster beds. The southwestern shores of the island were once home to the world’s first sustainable pearl farm, where skilled artisans harvested millions of lustrous pearls.
Revered as the “queen of gemstones,” the pearls of Isla Espíritu Santo cemented La Paz’s reputation for producing some of the most exquisite natural treasures. These pearls form through a remarkable biological process: when an oyster encounters an irritant, it secretes layers of nacre—also known as mother-of-pearl—to encase it. Over time, this process creates a luminous gem, admired for its beauty and rarity.
The Sea of Cortez was once the heart of Mexico’s Pacific pearl trade, but excessive harvesting nearly drove this natural resource to extinction. Recognizing the danger, the Mexican government banned pearl extraction in 1939, allowing Isla Espíritu Santo to return to its natural splendor.
A century before Queen Elizabeth’s visit—and just a few years before the pearl trade ban—two divers, Juan Vacaseque Calderón and Antonio Cervera, made a groundbreaking discovery. While working for the prominent Ruffo family, they uncovered an extraordinary pearl of immense size and brilliance. Initially named “Carmenaida” after Carmen and Adelaida Ruffo Santa Cruz, this pearl quickly gained fame for its unmatched radiance. Over time, it became known as “The Great Lemon,” a tribute to its luminous golden hue.
Antonio Ruffo Santa Cruz, a regular visitor to San Francisco, eventually met Sir Anthony Fein, a British ambassador. Enchanted by the pearl’s uniqueness, Fein sought to acquire it for the British Crown. Though Ruffo Santa Cruz initially declined to sell, he later decided to gift the pearl to King Edward VII. This gesture strengthened ties between La Paz and the British monarchy—an enduring connection that played a role in Queen Elizabeth II’s visit decades later.
When the queen arrived in La Paz in 1983, she was warmly welcomed by the governor of Baja California Sur, Alberto Andrés Alvarado Arámburo, and his wife. More than 40,000 people gathered to witness the royal visit, which included a stop at Our Lady of Peace Cathedral, locally known as La Catedral de La Paz. The event culminated in a grand banquet at the governor’s mansion.
Although her visit lasted only five hours, it left an indelible mark on the people of La Paz. The admiration was mutual—Queen Elizabeth II graciously acknowledged the city’s hospitality and its role in preserving the legacy of “The Great Lemon.” This remarkable story remains a testament to La Paz’s historical significance and its lasting connection to British royalty.
